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GLIMPSES
OF PRESENT LIFE
Buddhism is the way of life in Ladakh.
There are ancient Buddhist rock engravings all over the
region, even in areas like Dras and the
lower Suru Valley which today are
inhabited by an exclusively Muslim population. The divide
between Muslim and Buddhist, Ladakh passes through
leh (on the Kargil-Leh road) and between the villages of
Parkachick and Rangdum in the Suru Valley, though there
are pockets of Muslim population further east, in Padum
(Zanskar), in Nubra Valley and
in and around Leh. The approach to
Buddhist village is invariable marked by mani walls which
are long chest-high structures faced with engraved stones
bearing the mantra in mane paddle hum and by shorten,
commemorative cairns, like stone pepper-pots. Many
villagers are crowned with a gompa or monastery
which may be anything from an imposing complex of temples,
prayer halls and monks dwellings, to a
tiny hermitage housing a single image and home to solitary
lama. Islam too came from the west. A peaceful penetration
of the Shia sect spearheaded by missionaries, its success
was guaranteed by the early conversion of the sub-rulers
of Dras, Kargil and the Suru Valley. In these areas, mani
walls and shorten are placed by mosques, often small
unpretentious buildings, or Imambaras imposing structures
in the Islamic style, surmounted by domes of sheet metal
that gleam cheerfully in the sun.
APPEARANCE
OF PEOPLE
The traveler from India will look
in vain for similarities between the land and people he
has left and those he encounters in Ladakh. The faces and
physique of the Ladakhis, and the clothes
they wear, are more akin to those of Tibet and
Central Asia than of India. The original
population may have been Dards, an Indo-Aryan race
from down the Indus. But immigration
from Tibet, perhaps a millennium or so ago,
largely overwhelmed the culture of the Dards and
obliterated their racial characteristics. In eastern
and central Ladakh, today's population seems to
be mostly of Tibetan origin. Further west,
in and around Kargil, there is much in
the people's appearance that suggests a mixed origin. The
exception to this generalization are the Afghans,
a community of Muslims in Leh, the
descendants of marriages between local women and Kashmiri
or Central Asian merchants.
WORK
CULTURE
The demeanor of the people is
affected by their religion, especially among the women.
Among the Buddhists, as also the Muslims
of the Leh area, women not only work in the house and
field, but also do business and interact freely with men
other that their own relations. In Kargil
and its adjoining regions on the other hand, it is only in
the last few years that women are emerging from
semi-seclusion and taking jobs other than traditional ones
like farming and house -keeping. The natural joie-de-vivre
of the Ladakhis is given free rein by the ancient
traditions of the region. Monastic and
other religious festivals, many of which fall in winter,
provide the excuse for convivial gatherings. Summer
pastimes all over the region are archery and polo. Among
the Buddhists, these often develop into
open-air parties accompanied by dance and song, at which Chang,
the local brew made from fermented barley, flows freely.
COMPOSITE
HERITAGE
Of the secular culture, the
most important element is the rich oral literature of
songs and poems for every occasion, as well as local
versions of the Kesar Saga, the Tibetan national
epic. Buddhists and Muslims. In fact, the most
highly developed versions of the Kesar Saga and some of
the most exuberant and lyrical songs are said to be found
in Shakar-Chigtan, an area of the western
Kargil district exclusively inhabited by Muslims,
unfortunately not freely open to tourists yet. Ceremonial
and public events are accompanied by the characteristic music
of surna and daman (oboe and drum), originally
introduced into Ladakh from Muslim Baltistan, but now
played only by Buddhist musicians known as Mons.
ITINERARY
Day 01: Delhi - Leh
Day 02: Leh-Lamayuru
Day 03: Lamayuru-Wanlah
Day 04: Wanlah-Hinju Valley
Day 05: Hinju-Konze La-Camp
Day 06: Camp-Sumdo Choon
Day 07: Sumdo Choon-Satpski La-Alchi
Day 08: UleTokpo-Leh
Day 09: Leh-New Delhi
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